[Ideally bring in 3 experienced bottoms/2 assistant tops. Use bedroom, sawhorse (put by bookcase), and leather chair back as "stations." Do name tags.]

1. GENERAL ITEMS

1. Reintroduce participants (especially new ones); introduce guests. Remind all of refreshment setup.

2. The typical magazine image (also in videos and contests): Good features, especially in small areas (positive gay image), but as "image model," it can dishearten people (especially newcomers). Note how it takes away from personality and ability.

3. Lighting (e.g. colored lights, candles) can be very effective, even regular light that is simply lowered (but not so much that you can't see accurately). Green light and fluorescent light make people look terrible; red light makes everyone look good (but it can hide a back that is getting very red)!

4. Music often excellent as background, if chosen well. Shouldn't (usually) be familiar or music he hates (note generation gaps), so abstract may be best; not too loud; can set different moods. Play some KITARO/SILK ROAD I (dreamy), some BRAM STOKER'S DRACULA (scare the bottom out of the house!), and some VANGELIS/SOIL FESTIVITIES, highly speeded up (rhythmic background for flogging). But beware of bad tempos or rhythms that can throw you off, or having to change tape often. Note that bottom can get used to a musical rhythm, and stop concentrating on the flogging, so break rhythm at times.

2. SPANKING [sections I and II should take no more than 1 1/4 hours; then break for maximum of 15 minutes]

1. Ripping off jock (cut first, if it's yours); same for T-shirt. BUILD! (this is true for all activities, even with experienced bottoms.

2. Demonstrate spanking with hand (over knee; cup hand a bit). As a Top: Don't wear a ring! Build gradually by rubbing your hands over the skin, first lightly, warming him, getting him used to your touch. You want his body to remain relaxed. From rubbing, move into light tapping and smacking. Rhythmic music often will help. Pattern can be orderly or somewhat random. Rubbing the flesh in between smacks will help bottom take more. Using ice on ass at times. Go slowly and you can go farther. If your hand starts hurting, try putting on FINE LEATHER GLOVES. Stay aware of bottom's body language (tensing, hand or foot or head movements, shoulders arching, sounds). Pause appropriately to show affection and assurance, checking in with the bottom verbally and/or non-verbally. As a Bottom: Let muscles go slack (it's easier to take more sensation that way). BREATHING: When feeling tense and you realize you need to relax (or top realizes this), do deep breathing -- in through nose, then out deeply through mouth (making sound is good, but do what's natural for you). Body is most relaxed when breathing out; noise making helps you breathe regularly. Your mind may wander as scene progresses (sometimes you may go into your fantasy; at other times you may focus on your Top). Remember that he wants you to have a good time; trust him to take you there. EVERYONE TRY A LIGHT SPANKING OVER KNEE WITH YOUR PARTNER (not always an easy position; get your knee into his crotch; perhaps let his head and arms rest on another chair).

3. Show my CROP -- good starter when bottom is kneeling at your boots (it reaches his ass). BELT (soft vs. stiff; former can be hard to control; latter can be like a FLAPPER: good sound, but absorbs the force itself) -- show technique (easier over table or sawhorse or bed); watch kidneys, coccyx (tailbone), bony protrusions; watch buckle. Demonstrate (with bottom over a SAWHORSE). "FOLDED STRAP WITH HANDLE" and paddles [BREAKAWAY, PING-PONG, WOODEN (some have holes), LEATHER, SCHOOLBOY STRAP, FLAPPER, BRUSH (usually used more for punishment)]. ALL TRY THESE GENTLY ON A PARTNER [spread people widely around room], working from lighter to heavier, of course. Be careful about being very hard with rigid objects.

4. CANES. Must be flexible, and not "wobbly." Space out strokes (sting rises after; timing is crucial). "Perpendicular" technique; use wrist snap, not power; watch for wrap! Vertical vs. bent over (tighter) bottom positions (latter requires even better aim). Not using music allows for hearing breathing and cane. I'll pass out article later.

5. Remember to discuss with bottom whether it's all right to leave marks. Repeated hitting brings reddish color, blood rushing to skin surface ("erythema"). More leads to breaking of small vessels (a "hematoma" -- deeper red, may swell, can become black and blue even a couple of days later; you should stop working there). If some purple appears too quickly, stop hitting that area and put ice on for 20 minutes. More on this in lesson on Abrasion/Bruising. Dots of blood? Witch hazel/peroxide-- good for after flogging or shaving too.

6. Discipline: standing in corner; face slapping (show this) -- but know bottom's feelings on this; naughty boy approach to spanking vs. fatherly one (hard right away) -- what is bottom looking for! You must feel confident in what you choose to do (practice develops this, however).

REFRESHMENT BREAK

3. FLOGGING [we have about 2 1/2 hours to go]: Now we need naked backs [all remove shirts].

1. Concept of getting bottom to eventually "float off"; flogging is one of the activities that can do this! -- what could bring about that state: (a) repetitiveness of actions, rhythmically (b) carried on for long time [if you achieve this, remember to later bring bottom "back"!] Remember deep breathing concept.

2. CATS: Different types (gentle to hard); use all over (not above shoulders, and not on joints), including penis (lighter and careful). Use shorter strands for chests, generally, and watch for tit jewelry. Watch where "tips" go (wrap-around). Be sure strands of cat are same length. Don't wear loose watch on "flogging hand"! Develop scene [but be careful about how long your bottom can remain standing or keep his arms up; attaching both his wrists to same hook may make position easier for both bottom and top - it also helps make sure he doesn't lunge forward hitting nose on wall (can't happen on a St. Andrew's cross)!]. Note how to position yourself; note wrist technique. Show variety of cats; use each a bit on invited bottom. Do a little horizontal flogging also. In a scene, don't keep switching cats often; use each for a fair amount of time. Mention floggers elbow (tendonitis)! Discuss differences in feeling when bottom is bound to wall vs. off the wall. Breaking through pain barrier. Start lightly; bottom will feel it stronger as time goes on anyway. Rub back, etc. Lots of affection! You'll eventually develop a style of building to a great high. Knowing when to stop comes with experience ("reading" the bottom). "5 more strokes" idea: Bottom can "count down" if you wish; he can even start at whatever number he wishes (in spanking too), counting only those strokes he wishes! Good way for bottom to extend his limits; however, note my views on bottom counting down out loud.

3. Before tops see technique, let them feel several strokes (and weights) from each type of cat. Be gentle, and note that one must really never use same cat (or whip) on more than one person if skin gets broken, as we must avoid possibility of transfer of bodily fluids! [I won't even come close to breaking skin here.]

4. Note the procedure we will follow. After I do a brief demo, we will split into smaller groups, one for each instructor here. The "official" bottoms are encouraged to comment to help floggers improve their technique.

5. All go into bedroom now. Do an abbreviated scene (with music) with bottom. During it, show different cats and motions for about 10 minutes. After a while remove restraints and lean him against wall (facing wall) and continue flogging. Then flog totally off wall. [Finally, all return to livingroom.]

6. Break into groups and do individual instruction.

7. When all is done, and all are back in livingroom, show RIDING CROP and its use on invited bottom (keep it light). Show (but don't use) SIGNAL WHIP. Note need for weight-lifter's belt if using longer whips. Cleaning items: The big problem is Hepatitis (it can stay on bloody whip for weeks). Wipe strands with damp cloth (some soap, if needed); let dry; then "STAPHENE SPRAY" or equivalent, and hang dry for about 24 hours [some use Dawn and water, or peroxide, instead; "Citrace" spray is also available]. Eventually flogger needs reconditioning (e.g. every 6 months if its use is minimal); for leather in general, use Dr. Johnson's Leather Conditioner or Picard's Conditioner (lightly) or R.M. Williams Saddle Dressing; avoid Lexol (it contains silicon, which shines boots, but is not good for cats). If cat wrinkles, use iron that has cooled down. With time, tails stretch; recheck lengths and cut some if necessary. Also show "HOLDER FOR CATS," and how to use STOCKINETTE to pack cats.

8. Where to get cats. Watch for balance (strands side heavy pulls shoulder; handle heavy affects forearm). How to practice. Give out booklets on "Flogging Safety," "Choosing Whips" (by Joseph Bean), "The Art of Caning," "Playing Safe," "Editor's Notebook" article on ageism (from Checkmate magazine), my letter on "I Am Not a Leatherman," and a copy of these notes.

4. Remind all of the monetary charge for the SIG.

Next topic: Tit Torture and Genitorture! 1/23/00 = Shaving; if you're a shavee, don't! We'll do it for you! We'll discuss ordering rope, panic snaps, and double hooks at the next session.

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